A Paris love affair

 

A Paris love affair

 

Fortune has allowed me to celebrate several significant occasions in Paris – among them my marriage, and my fortieth birthday. And then there were some visits in between, so I was more than delighted to get the chance to return to the City of Lights early in December. Bundled up with coat, boots, gloves and hat, I navigated the Metro and the walking streets, and immersed myself in the atmosphere that is unique to this city.

 

Apart from its beauty, the special thing about Paris is the ease with which one can get around. A good way to recce places of interest is to take a guided trip by boat on the Seine: It costs R100, the guide speaks five languages and for nearly two hours of sights and history, it is really worthwhile. Transport to many of the major museums can be done by boat, by Metro which is cheaper, by bus or by taxi if you really get lost. All in safety. A carnet of ten Metro tickets cost R110, which was cheaper than buying individual tickets. And for that price I travelled from the Eiffel Tower, over several days, to the Musée d'Orsay, the Orangerie, the Sorbonne and of course to visit the 'Grands Magasins' – the main department stores on Boulevard Haussmann behind the Opéra, to name but a few places.

 

The Christmas lights were spectacular. In the Galeries Lafayette main store, a five storey Christmas tree hung from the top of its historic glass cupola, so that the beauty counters on the ground floor would not be disturbed. The Champs Elysées was a vision in blue: every tree twinkled with tiny blue lights. From the Arc de Triomphe to the Place de la Concorde, with its huge illuminated Ferris wheel, the sight was truly stunning. The Eiffel tower, that global icon of the city, had its own light show that lasted for ten minutes every hour; sparkling stars ran up and down the delicate-looking structure that was built in 1889 as the entrance arch for the World Fair.

 

It was not expensive to visit many of the magnificent museums: the Orangerie with its fine Monet collection cost 6.5 Euros, about R65. One can spend an entire day in this glorious place. It was closed for refurbishment for many years; every time I was in Paris previously! There is quite the most exceptional collection of Impressionists at the Musée d'Orsay (R55 entrance fee) and I was especially thrilled to see Degas' bronze of La Petite Danseuse De Quatorze Ans (Little Dancer of Fourteen Years) as I spent two decades in ballet shoes in my early years. Did I mention the Louvre? What can one say about this enormous repository of famous and precious art? Spend three days there …. You may see half of the collection. Visiting exquisite Notre Dame was spiritual experience as mass was in progress, but people are able to pass quietly through the outer hallway and take in its magnificence during open times; there is no entrance fee.   

 

The city is not only about museums. To take in the mood I wandered through the cobbled streets off the Boulevard Saint Michel; rue St. Séverin was lined with restaurants, and led to a warren of walking streets. My very favourite was rue de Buci, off the Boulevard Saint Germain; on market days it is buzzing, and on ordinary days magnificent displays of seafood and other delights tempt the stroller. I can recommend the 'Prix Fixe' menus offered at many restaurants, which consist of two or three courses at a fixed price; escargot in the shell, a hearty Boeuf Bourguignon followed by Créme Brulée will keep the cold and drizzly weather at bay.

 

Don't let winter weather put you off visiting this splendid city; there are great advantages in being able to get into any museum or restaurant without crowds, and at this time of year the visitor is especially welcome. You can immerse yourself in Frenchness. On a previous visit it snowed; that made the hot chocolate even more delicious!

 

Gone are the stereotypes of rude French waiters smoking foul-smelling Gauloise. Smoking has been banned in public places, and that includes restaurants. The rudeness, real or imagined, has given way to people who are exceptionally helpful and willing to speak English. French people may have changed, but Paris remains as beautiful as ever. Once again, I'm in love with this city. Je reviendrai! 

True story: I saved a forest

Forestry ruling stays execution

Isabelle Luker

Dubbed 'a little piece of paradise' by renowned conservationist the late Bill Duthie, two pockets of natural indigenous coastal forest in Marine Drive, Umhlanga, have had a reprieve from being summarily felled. 

Unfortunately the felling of trees had already begun, but a concerned member of the body corporate contacted the Forestry department. The department immediately faxed a warning to stop the felling of the trees. An onsite inspection, coupled with evidence that the trees had been part of the coastal forest before the complex was built, resulted in a final decision that a licence was indeed required.

The decision reads:

"Although the trees are a remnant of a larger forest patch fragmented by development and has been impacted upon by gardening interventions, it still conforms to the definition of "natural forest" of the National Forests Act, as supplemented by the technical definitions as described in the Memorandum of Understanding on Policy Principles and Guidelines for Co-operative Control of Development Affecting Natural Forests in KwaZulu-Natal. This is an official policy document applicable to forests in your province. The technical definition of "natural forest" as described in that document has been tested successfully in court. Another official document titled Classification System for South African Indigenous Forests: An objective classification for the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry of 2003 guides the identification of forest types, and from its descriptions the closed-canopy clump of trees at Spring Glade can be placed in the KwaZulu-Natal Coastal Forest type. It is one of the 26 national forest types officially declared to be natural forest by Notice 762 in the Government Gazette of 18 July 2008.

Based on the above, our technical ruling is that the clump of trees at Spring Glade (Marine Drive, La Lucia) can be considered to be natural forest, and requires a licence from the Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries before any cutting or pruning of trees may be done."

A similar situation occurred in The Manors complex in Umhlanga.  An entire copse of old indigenous trees was ripped out, and a case of malicious damage to property is pending.

 We can take heart that there are many individuals who are passionate about conservation. The least we can do for our children is to protect this legacy, so that they, and their children in turn, may discover the wonder and beauty of a forest.

 The forest: some were not saved.

Footnote: For my trouble during this epic battle I was punched in the face; stalked, and shoved around by the people who wanted the forest removed. The chairman of the complex at that time advised me to 'get out of Spring Glade because it's easy to pay someone to do something to you in these harsh economice times'. I no longer live there. But the forest does!

Granny Mouse Country House and Spa

Welcome home to Granny Mouse

By Isabelle Luker

Restfulness settled on my soul the moment we entered the gates at Granny Mouse Country Mouse and Spa in the Kwazulu Natal Midlands. Just over an hour's easy drive from Durban, South Africa, the atmosphere changed from humid tropicality to a country scene reminiscent of England without the cold weather.

New Owners

Fountains line the cobbled approach to the reception where Operations Manager Wayne Chislett welcomed us with a delicious cup of coffee served in one of the many quiet lounge areas that overlook the pool, an emerald green meadow and the river below. New owners Gill Bowmaker and Mark Wood have done wonders with the refurbishment of this country icon. Over several months of alterations and additions, the kitchen is now seven times its original size. Every bathroom, bedroom, dining and bar area has been meticulously renovated so that the feeling of comfort is complemented by the efficient yet unobtrusive service from the staff. The Eaves Restaurant is the new fine dining restaurant hidden in the eaves above the Bistro.

Over a simple lunch in the informal Bistro, Mark enthused about the many attractions in the immediate area. Culamoya wind chimes, various leather, Swissland Cheese, Belgian Chocolate outlets and the beauty of the Dargle Road. I had a smoked salmon with wasabi mayonnaise on home-made bread, while my husband had a delicious hamburger and salad. The view from the deck was magical: green meadows and horses lazily browsing behind a white post and rail fence. Buck, Fish Eagles and many small creatures also share this countryside.

Worth coming for the Spa

Fellow guests Reuben and Denise said: "This is the type of place you want to spend time at. We are particularly impressed with the chef who copes in a calm and relaxed manner. Besides the delicious cuisine, it's worth coming for the spa alone." Gill said that 55 per cent of guests come from Gauteng. "They arrive in a totally tense mood, and by the time they leave they are completely refreshed."

Culamoya Wind Chimes

At Mark's suggestion, we took a trip down the road to visit Culamoya Chimes. A simple shopping outing turned into a spiritual experience as Lola Haupt explained how she and her husband Frik got into manufacturing their handmade chimes. Each set of chimes is tuned to play, for example, the bells of Big Ben, Westminster and St Paul's. They boast the largest set of wind chimes in Africa, up to 4m in length. And we came away with these words from Lola: "Singing wind tuned chimes from Africa; when the earth breathes, let the Whispering Wind remind you of the peace, love, beauty and abundance that surrounds you."

After a relaxing massage and a nice nap, we took a walk along the river path with Sheba, the resident pet. Sheba led the way, stopping every few minutes to make sure that we were following. It was so comforting to have her as our guide and companion! (Contact: 033 234 4503 or visit www.culamoyachimes.co.za).

Wine pairing and fine dining

That evening, we had a special surprise in that a wine pairing, fine dining experience awaited us in the cosy atmosphere of the wine cellar. Food and Beverage Manager Leon Hansmeyer led us through the wine pairing to the delightful dishes prepared by chef Lerique Allers. The red pepper 'sushi' starter was enhanced by a glass of Bouchard Finlayson Chardonnay which John Platter gave four stars. Leon explained that this wine is not too buttery so it would not overcome the subtleness of the starter. Our main course, with salmon and sole, was accompanied by Sumaridge Pinot Noir 2008. "This wine has lovely soft tannin and the structure pairs well with fish in particular. Chilling the wine works well with the wasabi mash, and adds crispness, explained Leon. The pièce de résistance was undoubtedly the white chocolate crème brulée dessert. The crunchiness of the brulée with the soft, trembly texture of the white chocolate was complimented by a 2008 Klein Constantia Rhein Riesling. "The initial palate is crisp and acidic but pares down to a sweetness. The sugariness of the dessert and the wine amalgamate to create a very subtle taste," Leon explained. Next morning, our breakfast was fit for a king – and queen.

Eco-friendly

Gill and Mark have rebranded Granny Mouse to reflect an eco-friendly promise. "We are situated in the Balgowan Conservancy which is home to families of reebok and the Midlands Blue Butterfly. The mouse and the butterfly are reflected in our logo, which also contains the colour green." Granny Mouse has a tranquil chapel for wedding functions. "The wedding party can take over the spa and make use of the hairdresser so that no-one need leave the premises, and the catering is superb," said Gill. Granny Mouse arranges wine pairing and wine tasting events, the next event being held in April for about 60 people. They have a Cigar bar (named after the famous American thoroughbred racehorse) which is a single malt and smoking room.

Complete refurbishment

"We refurbished because we would like to be number one in the Midlands. We are surrounded by exquisite properties, strong restaurant offerings, crafts and great shopping, so these other attractions add to the desirability of spending time here."

Perfect peace was our Granny Mouse experience. The fine dining and star-quality service made our stay unforgettable.

Granny Mouse Country House & Spa is situated on the R103 near Balgowan. Tel: 033 234 4071 or visit: www.grannymouse.co.za.

March 2011

South African Trappist Missions and Steam Trains

When a train has been fitted out by Rovos Rail, it will be luxurious. The 'Sisonke Stimela' steam train is just so, and I had a wonderful overnight stay on it in Underberg, KZN, South Africa while doing a tour of the Trappist mission stations in the southern Drakensberg area. Launched in the first week of September, 2010, this tourism initiative melds a deluxe steam train journey with mission and avi-tourism in a region which celebrated author Alan Paton described thus: "There is a lovely road that runs from Ixopo to the hills. These hills are grass-covered and rolling and they are lovely beyond any singing of it."
The quaint, restored station at Creighton was our boarding point and we sighed with pleasure when we saw our compartment - complete with duvet-covered double bed, seating area and a bathroom with shower. There was champagne in our fridge. Before our gourmet dinner we joined other travellers in the comfortable lounge for cocktails and conversation. the train stopped overnight for the most peaceful sleep imaginable which put me in the mood for a sumptuous breakfast of Eggs Benedict, done to perfection. In addition to this luxurious steam train, there is a narrow-gauge steam train run from Ixopo by owners Julian and Jos Pereira.
In the Ixopo area there is a network of over twenty Catholic Mission Stations which were built by the Trappists in the latter part of the 1800s and early part of the twentieth century. Visiting Reichenau, Centocow, Lourdes, Emaus, Mariathal and St. Isidore Missions, our guides, architectural historian Robert Brusse and Dudley Smith gave us a depth of perspective, insights into the cultures of the region and an appreciation of the beautiful architecture of these missions. We spent a night at St. Isidore, now King's Grant guest house, which was splendidly comfortable with outstanding cuisine.
This entire region has so much to enthrall the traveller. Smithfield Guest House facilitates birding tours as this region features more than 300 species and is identified by Birdlife International as having nine 'Important Bird Areas'. Malcolm Gemmell leads these tours.
For visitors wanting an interesting an different experience, I heartily recommend this area. The Southern Midlands Tourism Association has more information.

Vacation

We have just returned from a great holiday in the USA. Ned's high school/grammar school reunion in Carmel, California was a long weekend of fun! His former classmates are really interesting people. The mayor of Carmel gave us a guided tour of the Sunset Centre (which was the grammar school). Their theatre is state-of-the-art and Carmel has a community facility to be very proud of. After many social events we ended our trip spending a few days in Washington, D.C. More socialising with old friends - dinner in Bethesda, dinner at their home in Wheaton; we seem to eat a lot! Our favourite restaurants (new the Convention Centre, where we stayed) are Tony Chang's and Ella's. Favourite museum is the brand new Newseum. As a journalist and photographer I found much inspiration from those who bring us the news. The fun part was being able to report the news 'live'. I choked in the middle and finished by giggling so I know where my talent does not lie. All things come to an end. Our trip home on South African Airways was really good even though we fly cattle class: what a great airline. Now it's time to catch up on all the news with friends and family!

My World

I live in Umhlanga Rocks, on the east coast of South Africa. I am passionate about my village, its trees, even the vervet monkeys that swing through our lives. This special place has beautiful beaches, a seaside promenade, outdoor restaurants and a carefree attitude. The weather is warm all year. The people are friendly.



My world includes the community and its goings-on. I want (and need to) know as much as possibly can about it, because I am a freelance journalist, and write for community newspapers and magazines. The people of Umhlanga are active in every thinkable committee and organisation to make life better for all: the environment, beautifying Umhlanga, urban improvement, animal welfare and rehabilitation of street kids; you name it, and you will find the same committed individuals working on it. It's nice to know that there are people around me who care. And I care about these people, and try to lighten their lives with my articles; or expose issues that impact detrimentally on our lifestyle so that we can all stand up for what we believe in.